Exploring Jordan

We are once again sitting in the fabulous lobby of the Golden Tulip Hotel after an amazing day of exploring ancient ruins near Amman. We hired a driver named Mustafa (recommended by the hotel staff.) He was wonderful -- a displaced Palestinian born in Ramalah. Ole will put some photos on the blog of the two places we visited: Ajloon castle and Jeresh, site of successive cultures from Roman to Greek to Byzantine to Moslem. In both places, we found amazing guides. At Ajloon, we met a man who had been part of the original excavation in his youth in the 60's. He knew so much about this castle that had once been used as a fortress, then a medical college and then a Byzantine Church. At Jeresh, we were walking through the ruins when a 15 year old boy appeared and appointed himself as our guide. He really did help us find some of the places we wanted to see. He wasn't too accurate with his information (he thought that Zeus was the queen and Artemis was the king), but he did pretty well considering he learned from hanging around with the real guides. At the end of his "tour", Ole offered him 2 Jordanian dinars (more like $3 US) for his help. He handed it back and said "This is for you. I saw $5 in your wallet. The official guides charge $20." Ole gave him the $5, and then he was worried that he had spoiled our good relationship, and he kept asking "The $5 is good for you?" Ole reassured him that it was okay. He was immediately relieved, and a few seconds later, he came close to me and asked for a US dollar for a souvenir! He really tickled us. We were intrigued to realize that he was not much older than Teo. We were so hot as we explored around that I kept feeling like I was going to faint. We were drenched and then, as we cooled down in the air-conditioned car, crusty with salt. Now, though, I feel wonderful after all the good exercise and almost a sauna. Our bags were found at the Amman airport this morning, and they promised to deliver them to our hotel in four hours. When we returned to the hotel, however, they weren't here. We had to call again, and they were still at the airport. No explanation. He has promised to deliver them here by midnight. Tomorrow we plan to meet our driver at 7:30 AM to visit the WWU dig that we thought we would be part of, and then go to the Jordan River site where Jesus was believed to be baptized. After that, we will go to Mt. Nebo where Moses viewed the Promised Land and then was taken to heaven. We hope, also, to have a tour of some museums and other interesting things in the City of Amman. I wish I could describe the awesome experience it is just to be here! Ole asked me what stood out from our day. I was surprised to realize that it was connecting with a couple of the women who were also visiting the sites. Everywhere there are women in the traditional garb. They fascinate me, and a couple of times, I was able to make eye contact, and we really connected, woman to woman. Sometimes they had babies, and they understood without words that I was admiring their child. All the barriers between us are so artificial, and I love it when they crumble in the face of mutual human respect and regard. Everyone has been so kind to us here. The Jordanians ask where we are from, and they always say, "Welcome to Jordan!" One of the waiters from the hotel restaurant gave us lessons in Arabic today. I'm trying to memorize all the important terms like "shoq'ran" (thank you) and "jamil" (very nice!) and "ojip" (I like it! It's fantastic!) Well, I'd better quit! What a fabulous experience we are having!!!!!